SV Ramble On

Walking through the archaeological site of Cholula, which is in the middle of the town of Cholula, is one of those experiences where history is literally beneath your feet. What looks from a distance like a natural hill is actually the enormous Great Pyramid of Cholula, known to the ancient people as Tlachihualtépetl—“the hill made by hand.”

Cholula has been continuously inhabited for more than 2,000 years, beginning around 500 BC. It became one of the most important ceremonial and commercial centers of ancient Mesoamerica, attracting pilgrims and merchants from across the region. Different peoples and cultures shaped the city over the centuries, including groups associated with the Gulf Coast, Toltecs, and eventually the Mexica (Aztecs). That long history is visible in the layers of construction and artifacts throughout the site.

The Great Pyramid is especially remarkable because it wasn’t built all at once. Instead, successive generations constructed larger temples and platforms over earlier ones, creating a massive complex with a base of roughly 450 meters on each side—the largest pyramid base in Mesoamerica. Much of the pyramid’s original structure is hidden beneath the earth, which is why today it looks more like a giant natural hill than a traditional pyramid.

Archaeologists have explored the interior through an extraordinary network of tunnels—nearly 8 kilometers (5 miles) were excavated to uncover the different construction phases. Along the way they discovered temples, altars, offerings, burials, and beautiful painted murals, including Los Bebedores (The Drinkers) and Los Chapulines (The Grasshoppers). Sadly, the tunnels are no longer open to the public.

One of the most fascinating things about Cholula is the way its sacred landscape continued to evolve. The ancient pyramid was associated with important religious traditions, including the worship of Tláloc, while centuries later the Spanish built the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios on top of the pyramid. An ancient sacred mountain and a colonial church now occupy the same extraordinary space.

Cholula isn’t simply a collection of ruins—it is a city with thousands of years of living history layered one on top of another. And there is still so much more beneath the surface.

We spent a day exploring Cholula, Puebla—a place where ancient history, colonial architecture, and vibrant modern street art all come together.

We started by hiking up the enormous Great Pyramid of Cholula, one of the largest pyramid complexes in the world by volume. At the top sits the beautiful Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, a 16th-century Spanish church built by the conquistadors over the ancient pyramid. The church’s bright yellow dome and towers make an incredible contrast against the surrounding landscape, with spectacular views of the volcanoes on a clear day. It’s also a fascinating symbol of the layers of history that define Cholula—an ancient sacred site transformed into a Christian place of worship.

From there, we explored the Cholula archaeological site, including the remains and tunnels of the enormous pyramid complex. Cholula has been inhabited for more than 2,500 years and was one of the most important religious centers of pre-Hispanic Mesoamerica. The city was already ancient when the Aztecs arrived, and according to historical accounts, Cholula was a major pilgrimage destination dedicated to the worship of Quetzalcoatl.

We also spent time at the Regional Museum of Cholula, which brought even more of that history to life, from the region’s ancient civilizations through the Spanish conquest and colonial period.

And, of course, we couldn’t resist stopping to admire more of Cholula’s incredible street art. 🎨 Everywhere we walked, there seemed to be another colorful mural, adding a distinctly modern layer to this very old city.

A day spent walking through thousands of years of history—with a little art, architecture, and beautiful views along the way.

Standing under stormy skies in front of the Templo de San Francisco in Puebla — the city’s first Franciscan convent, founded in the 1530s.

That tall dark stone tower rises nearly 63 meters, and the façade is pure Puebla Baroque: ornate gray cantera portal framed by red brick and those beautiful blue-and-white Talavera tile panels. The open atrium in front makes the whole building feel even more impressive.One of those places that stops you in your tracks. Puebla never disappoints.

While in Puebla we had to try the classic cemita poblana — Puebla’s signature sandwich.
It starts with a soft, sturdy sesame-seed bun that’s slightly sweet and sturdy enough to hold everything without falling apart. Inside: a crisp, golden breaded milanesa (usually pork, sometimes chicken or beef), piled with stretchy strands of quesillo, creamy avocado slices, a few sharp pickled jalapeños or smoky chipotle, and the essential leaves of pápalo — that distinctive herb that tastes somewhere between cilantro, arugula, and a faint soapy brightness.
The combination is all contrast: crunchy meat against soft cheese and avocado, mild richness cut by heat and the herb’s unique lift. Generous, messy in the best way, and unmistakably Pueblan.🥑🥪

Barrio del Artista (Artist’s Quarter or Artist Neighborhood) is the main artist district in Puebla’s historic center. It began in 1940–1941 when painters and Academy of Fine Arts instructors José and Ángel Márquez Figueroa (with support from other artists and local authorities, including the governor and mayor) transformed an old commercial area known as the Parián Chico. Visitors can watch artists paint, talk with them, and buy work directly.