Cmee-jeva airsoft radionica

Today I had a long and productive talk about Airsoft-Labs.com with a renowned airsoft technician. It made me realize that I might have failed to state the purpose of the program strongly enough:

​It will NOT miraculously make your replica great. It will NOT suddenly turn a clumsy technician into a master. It will NOT solve problems caused by using poorly assembled and/or inadequate parts, NOR will it simulate some crappy junkyard replica or low-quality parts. That is NOT its purpose, and even though it is internally capable of doing so, it is already complex enough without exposing extra parameters to the end user-such as leaks, friction, thermal conductivity, and similar mumbo-jumbo.

​​But, if you are interested in the inner workings, what it WILL do is help you understand how certain parameters affect performance. Provided you didn't f**k anything up while assembling it!

​It WILL allow you to virtually experiment with various values, such as cylinder volume, barrel length, and bore size, and let you see how they work together.

​It WILL show you how hop-up, BB mass, shooting position, wind, and even air pressure affect the trajectory and range, and it WILL bust a lot of myths regarding them.

It WILL help you properly dimension certain parts, and it WILL improve your intuition which will eventually make a good technician even better.

But it will NOT replace a good technician!!!

​I hope this clears things up a bit, so if this disappointed you, I'm glad we sorted it out in time.

P.S. The illustration was generated by Gemini, but I still need to polish it out a bit.

Airsoft-Labs simulator aplikacija je konačno lansirana!

Za onih par koje zanima kako koja komponenta utječe na brzinu, domet, putanju kuglice, glasnoću replike i tako to. Od mase bobe, skraćivanja opruge, dimenzija cilindra - pa do toga pod kojim kutem držiš repliku... I svega drugog čega se možeš sjetiti.

Prvih 10 juzera koji se registriraju s kodom RADIONICA100 dobit će dodatnih 100 kredita za džabe! (Kod unosiš nakon registracije klikom na ikonu juzera gore desno i nakon toga na "Unesi promo kod").

Fala qrcu, koliko dugo sam ju žvakao, nadam se da će nešto i valjati!

I nemoj ko junac krenut klikat po aplikaciji, bez da si prije bacio oko na upute!

Home – Airsoft Labs Physics-based AEG simulator calibrated against real measurements – enter your replica’s hardware and get muzzle energy, spin, trajectory and more.

"Cumouflage"

Using Hot Glue to make camouflage: Part 2. P-mag boogaloo How to use Hot Glue and Rit Dye to make a durable camouflage withou...

"I'LL SAVE SOME MONEY BY BUYING CHEAP BBs"

The f*ck you will, and here's why:

Cheap BBs are produced by using a cheap process, resulting in BBs that are not perfectly round, and some of them are even bigger than the max 6.00 mm (the regular ones are actually 5.95 mm). Those BBs get stuck in the barrel, and with better replicas where everything seals perfectly - that results in a "compression jam". Due to the blocked barrel, the air builds up and the piston cannot reach its forward position and remains somewhere in the middle, so in the next cycle the gears catch the piston and try to force it beyond its furthest rear position. The gears jam. A stronger motor will strip the teeth outright - and the shreds are likely to f*ck up your ETU too.

"But it's an expensive replica, and it should not be that sensitive!" Nope! It's same story as with cars - the more expensive the car, the higher-quality fuel it requires, and I just explained why.

So, if you spend 400€+ on a nice replica - don't cheap out on the BBs! Get some decent ones around 20€+ per kilo, and that will save you a lot in the long run!

Iako je Kina jedan od najvećih proizvođača airsoft replika i dijelova, airsoft je tamo ilegalan: sve iznad 1,8 J/cm² gustoće energije (za kuglicu od 6 mm ispada oko 0,51 J) svrstava se pod vatreno oružje, a i slabije replike padaju u zabranjenu kategoriju imitacija.

Interni dijelovi - zupčanici, klipovi, cilindri, hop-up itd. - ne mogu se energetski kategorizirati, pa prolaze bez problema, dok su vanjski dijelovi rizičniji. Zanimljivo je da popularni E&L potječe iz tvornice Emei, kineskog proizvođača vatrenog oružja koji datira još od 1890.

Kinezi su pragmatični i poslovno orijentirani, pa se dosta toga fakturira i otprema preko Hong Konga, koji ima zasebnu carinsku granicu i vlastiti pravni okvir, a područje Tajvana je pak zaseban proizvodni centar. Realno, radi se o sivoj zoni koja - iako uz povremene racije i zapljene - opstaje već dugo.

A follower just asked me how I measure motor speed, so here you go (again):

You'll need a laboratory power source and a smartphone. Set the power source to exactly 11.1V, and crank the current limiter to the max.

Install any free spectral analysis program, such as Spectroid for Android or whatever counterpart you Apple weirdos have.

Place the motor near the phone, hold the shaft support collar, if there is one (not the pinion gear, dum-dum - it would mill your fingertip away!) fixed with a pinky to prevent it from spinning, and connect the power source to the motor. If you let the collar spin along, it will mess up the readings.

Read the frequency of the lowest peak and multiply it with 60. Voila - that's your motor nominal speed.

That Avalon URGI replica comes with solid internals, but - to quote that guy from the Chernobyl series: "Not great, not terrible."

The decent gearbox with hefty bearings can stay.

The stock brass 380mm x 6.03mm inner barrel is also OK-ish, but I prefer lighter and smoother Black Python barrels.

The spring seems to be a progressive Guarder SP110, but it disappointingly results in barely 1.45J out of the box with 0.32g BBs, because of the undervolumed Type C cylinder. After tightening the hopup some more, it drops even further.

Once the cylinder is replaced with a Type B, the spring results in 1.6J, so the 5mm nylon spring buffer inside the piston head needs to be replaced with a thinner one.

The plastic rotary hopup chamber with a standard black bucking does not play well with Pmags - resulting in feeding issues and power drops to 0.3J. After replacing it with the Maxx Pro chamber, r-hop, and a Maple Leaf bucking the feeding issues are gone, and the power is barely affected by the hopup settings.

A POM piston with 7 steel teeth, and an alu head with one o-ring give a good compression, so they can stay.

The VFC 18:1 gears and a 26.5k neodymium motor result in 19 rps, but I rather prefer 12:1 and a 19k motor that give 22 rps, a much snappier trigger response, and a ridiculously low power consumption per cycle (0.32 mAh).

The Aster SX comes with the Basic firmware, so the knit picks will pay an extra 19€ for the upgrade to the Expert version.

Overall, it's a good base for a decent replica. The only caveat is that the mag release button catches the mags slightly too shallow, so replacing it with one with a deeper tooth might be a good idea.

Šta je, govnari ovisnički, drogirate se, a? Zna Zuck da je ovdje rjieč o drozi! 😄