MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT

Finlay Wild took a break from his running to make a rapid ascent of the long and stunning Brouillard Integrale on Mont Blanc last week. The fun stopped on the way down with an incoming storm a little too close for comfort, thankfully the Vallot Refuge was close at hand!

In late May, Freja Shannon set out on a 14-day expedition to Alaska. After waiting excitedly for a suitable weather window, a three-day effort saw Freja's team successfully summit Denali, via the Cassin Ridge. This is the first Irish and the first Swedish female ascent of the south face of Denali.

"14 days in Alaska. We experienced the 'Talkeetna Hang' with every other mountain goer waiting for a window to fly in, then the long, arduous single-carry with sleds (note to self: never do that again), waited out storms at 11 camp, anxiously checked the weather, re packed gear, stared at Denali and wondered will she be good to us?

Inched our way up the mountain trying to acclimatise, felt like s**t and thought, there's no way I could climb like this, jumped into warm sleeping bags with hot Nalgene's as soon as the sun hid behind Foraker, by the way have cheesy Quesidillas ever tasted so good as at 14 camp? Wondered why we didn't just go sport climbing and why didn't we bring more beef jerky.

A once in a lifetime opportunity opened up at the very end of our trip, though it was full of doubt, having never been above 4200m, fear, because, well, it's Denali and you're totally on your own, intimidating because it's the Alps supersized but followed by an immense curiosity of wanting to be up there and experience it all.

We packed our bags, picked up a hitchhiker and climbed the Cassin ridge over three days but I almost didn't want to look around too much in case I realised where I was and got scared.

Calf burning ice, glacier chimneys, snowy cowboy arete, blazing hot sun and freezing cold, freeze dried Mac n Cheese, digging out snow ledges, wishing it was over and wishing it could start all over again, never ending summit slopes and new friends along the way."

- Freja Shannon

After spotting a blank face in one of his many mixed climbing guidebooks, Christophe Dumarest set off to explore the opportunity of a new route on the east face of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

"KAIROS: A new route on the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The moment of opportunity.

A few days earlier, while leafing through mixed climbing guidebooks, I was struck by the blank space between the Jagger Couloir and some of the massif’s most popular ice gullies. In the old Vallot guide, only a route by Walter Cecchinel (1973) follows the spur to the left of the line I had begun to imagine.

The first five pitches through the lower buttress gave us a hard time. The cracks were steep, but the blades were solid, and the protection was good.

Full of enthusiasm, Symon whipped in one of the technical sections and broke a cam. One hundred metres below, blocks dislodged by either my partner or the rope came crashing down onto my helmet. I lost 10 cm in height. Two hundred metres higher, despite our vigilance, it was my turn to nearly take a fatal fall when a loose block shifted beneath me.

The route was harder and longer than we had imagined — that’s the nature of opening a new line. We would not make it out in a single push…

A few days later, despite fresh snow, we returned to the face. Rock steps and mixed ground followed one another up to a magnificent yellow tower of compact granite. A beautiful exposed pitch demanded total commitment. Yet once again, the protection was solid and allowed for calm, confident climbing.

In the final metres, we came across two pitons — traces left by the pioneers who had passed this way in 1973.

Happy, we emerged onto the summit ridge after a traverse of roughly 700 metres. A magical moment, and the privilege of climbing an unclimbed route ground-up, right at the perfect moment."

- Christophe Dumarest

Read Christophe's full write-up now🔗

In April, eight members of the new intake of the 2026–2028 Young Alpinist Group gathered in Chamonix for a 12-day meet. The focus on building partnerships and developing solid alpine judgement.

After many action-packed days, on day 8, the group took a break from climbing to attend a mountain medicine course, kindly funded by William Newson. The focus shifted firmly from movement and objectives to what to do when things go wrong.

The final few days were no different from the rest. James M and James K set out to Vent du Dragon, finding thin and awkward conditions, with the route already feeling more late-spring than alpine conditions.

Over on the Tacul, Mike and Tom Livingstone had the vision of climbing E Logic, but drifted left into unclimbed ground and ended up piecing together what was a new mixed line around the M7+ grade.

With unsettled weather and challenging conditions on day 11, teams adapted plans and abandoned some or made the best of the better conditions in the valley, with Amiee Hogg and Louis heading to Barberine for some multi-pitch sport climbing, ticking Sylvie Phobie.

As the final days of the trip approached, the group gathered to pack their kit, reflect on the trip, and squeeze in a few more beers and pizza in Big Mountain Brew before heading home.

Read the full write-up on our website now 🔗

In April, eight members of the new intake of the 2026–2028 Young Alpinist Group gathered in Chamonix for a 12-day meet. The focus on building partnerships and developing solid alpine judgement.

Day 5 saw the whole team head out to Grands Montets for a ski-focused training day. One group focused on movement, efficiency, and decision-making on steep terrain, whilst those with less experience covered fundamental ski technique and control.

On day 6, James K and Tom Livingstone climbed the Lagarde on Les Droites, approaching and bivvying beneath the route the previous day after ski school. Despite arriving in Chamonix straight from sea level, James made a strong first outing. At the same time, Elin and Aimee Hogg climbed the Cosmiques Arête. A steady introduction to alpine winter climbing for Aimee, focusing on movement and systems in an iconic and exposed terrain.

Day 7 was no less action-packed, with James Kelly and Elin the Vallée Noire, with Elin successfully completing her objective of skiing the Vallée Blanche after less than two weeks on skis, a strong milestone. Alongside this, James Milton and James Price (ex YAG) climbed an impressive line called the Voie Charlet on the Aiguille de Leschaux, linking together a long and committing outing to the summit. The round trip from hut to valley took 27 hours.

Read the full write-up on our website now 🔗

In April, eight members of the new intake of the 2026–2028 Young Alpinist Group gathered in Chamonix for a 12-day meet. The focus on building partnerships and developing solid alpine judgement.

On the first day, the team covered avalanche awareness, crevasse rescue, and “alpine sense,” before putting it into practice at Grands Montets. A stop at Big Mountain Brewing Company and an evening with Paul Ramsden rounded off a strong start to the trip.

Days 2, 3 and 4 saw the group split in classic alpine fashion to take on various objectives. On day 2, Mike and James M made their way to Pointe Lachenal, climbing M6 Solar.

Day 3 saw Louis, accompanied by Paul Ramsden, climb the Gabarrou–Albinoni before settling in for a bivvy on the glacier beneath the Supercouloir. Meanwhile, James M and Tom Livingstone took on Les Temps est Assassin on the Triangle - technical, sustained, and a good test.

Day 4 was another big day on the hill, with James M and Mike opting for the Lagarde Couloir Direct; long, steep, and not particularly forgiving.

Read the full write-up on our website now 🔗

Freja Shannon recently took to the North Face of the Aiguille Verte. Teaming up with John McCune, they climbed the modern classic "Late To Say I'm Sorry" (M7+).

"They say you're not an alpinist until you've climbed the Verte, and I can kinda see why, although I think we took a slightly harder line than what they implied.

1000m of beautiful, techy, hard climbing, which at times made me feel like I had no business on the mountain. Watching John execute the crux pitch with ease and finesse makes me want to be exactly like that when I grow up.

In 2025, Fay Manners and I took a punt on this line, but we couldn't pass the bergschrund, and in true Chamonix style, after seeing Olivier Gajewski's recent ascent, we decided to follow suit. If anyone's gonna head up there, bring a tough head for the ice pitches, which are a lot drier than 'usual' and sharp axes and strong toes for the never-ending downclimb of the Coutourier couloir and maybe some extra fruit cake because it's a really long day.

Team Ireland!"

- Freja Shannon

Technical Jargon Glossary

U - Undercling

Also often referred to as an undercut, they often get better as your feet get higher!

Let us know your favourite climbing hold below 👇