Butel Mountaineering

TOP ROPE HEROES

Over the past couple of weekends I have run a few day courses for The Jersey Rock Climbing Club. We predominantly looked at building good quality, safe and simple anchors for use in bottom rope climbing.

Having the knowledge of good gear placements and belays is a great and logical step towards leading climbing in the future.

I also ran a one day problem solving course looking at ways of getting out of common tricky situations.

THE SLAB OF ALL SLABS

Super stoked to tick this one off before leaving Wales for a few weeks! It’s been sitting right at the top of the wishlist, and it definitely didn't disappoint. Huge thanks to Angus Kille for the patient belay—somehow he’s always the guy holding my ropes when I’m getting scared on a hard slab! Our friendship was pretty much forged in these quarries, and it’s still going strong.

Poetry Pink E5 6b ✌🏼⭐⭐⭐

ONLY A CLIMBER KNOWS THE FEELING

​Billabong coined the original phrase for surfers in the 80s, but for us, the sentiment is just as true.

​Non-climbers—the "others"—constantly ask us: Why? Why do you do it? The answers are as personal as the routes we choose, yet most of us are chasing the same thing.

​If I ever struggle to put it into words, I’ll just show them this photo of Jez. This is exactly why I climb.

Resurrection/Erection E2 5c
Cwm Clogwyn
Eryri

BACK YARD ANTICS

Some very cool new routes in the Glyn Rhonwy quarries have been put up over the past few years.

Some routes are classic slate style with only a couple of bolts but most are fully bolted that despite the first appearance climb really well. Some good effort put in by local activists finding lines between the absolute chaos of choss.

You can find the latest developments in a little supplement guide that helps fund the bolting at local climbing stores such as .

"I DON'T WANT TO ANYTHING WITH A ROPE"

A thoroughly enjoyable weekend out with Dan doing some roped scrambling. This is the third time Dan has been out with me, firstly a couple years ago for hiking, then last year we did some grade 1 scrambles and now we have him on a rope (or lead as he referred to it).

We stepped it up a notch this weekend and despite the adverse weather we had an awesome weekend out scrambling on some fine albeit slippery rock across Eryri.

Yesterday we explored the east face of Tryfan and today we went up into Cwm Glas. We warmed up on Cwm Glas mawr approach scramble (wet) before heading over to the absolute classic and always full value Clogwyn y Person Arete. Dan absolutely smashed it especially since he has never been on a rope or climbed before.

I love seeing the progression from hiking to mountaineering. Reminds me a bit of my journey into this world.

Thanks for a mint weekend Dan.

CUILLIN

A few days spent on the ridge. This is not my normal stomping ground and it's really nice to spend some time working and playing in different mountains in the UK.

The mountains of Skye are unique, exciting, loose, dramatic and incredibly beautiful and very different to those of Eryri. I love the big days there it makes it feel like a real adventure ( but I also love the short walk-ins here in North Wales 😂)

It was a pleasure to take out once again into the mountains. We spent two days exploring the southern end of the ridge.

On a day off with the weather looking very Scottish and myself spent a misty morning scrambling the classic Pinnacle ridge then on to Am Bastier and down Kings Cave chimney. I love this route and incorporates some really cool scrambling and abseiling across some adventurous ground.

NOT THE NICEST NAME IS IT

When a client requests climbing Gashed Crag it would be rude not to. It's a classic afterall 😵‍💫

Gashed Crag. A classic climb route on the east face of Tryfan. It climbs a buttress on the far end of the mountain serving up some very entertaining climbing especially at the grade. Old school is an understatement.

If you like your VDiffs with polished poorly protected chimneys then this is for you. If you don't then this is for you.

Gashed Crag 🤔

APRIL - AP-RULES

April is often my favourite time in Eryri. Longer evenings (but not too long) and sometimes warmer temperatures (but not too warm) make for perfect cragging days.

Nathan Pictor putting his winter sport climbing fitness to good use on :

A Touch of Class - Drws y Gwynt - Llanberis Pass

FUN

It's not always about trying hard. Remember to have fun. With mates.