Alpine Logic

This guy, Charles Rutstein

This week was a great reminder that being a mountain guide is, first and foremost, about the people. Those I choose to share time with and create experiences for are the real reason I keep doing this work, 25 years later.

A guide’s climbing ability, technical prowess, mountain savvy, and ability to triage and manage a variety of risks and hazards are all just means to an end. They’re necessary, and they take years of dedication and hard work. But they’re still just tools we wield to create something out of nothing.

Early in my career, I was impressed (and maybe a little envious) by the relationships my mentors had with some of their longtime clients. They seemed as much friends as they were connected by business. And indeed they were.

I’m so fortunate to have found such a steadfast and generous friend in Charles. Anyone who knows him knows he’s the salt of the earth — committed to those close to him and always looking for new ways to give back and pay it forward.

From our first pitches in Jackson to convincing him to serve beside me on the AMGA Board of Directors (it didn’t take much convincing), it’s been a pleasure to spend the hours, the rope, and the summits with this guy.

Lots of laughs. Lots of fun pics. :)

Can’t wait until the next time, Charles!

15 years ago today several colleagues and I completed our final day of peer review on the lengthy journey to become internationally licensed mountain guides. For me, the day was 10 years in the making, with thousands of hours and thousands of dollars invested. The journey was in the name of becoming a professional.

This post is a shoutout to all professionals - mountain or otherwise - doing their thing, day-in, day-out. There is honor in committing to something bigger then yourself and taking the time to become an expert. I’ve had the good fortune of being surrounded by professionals my entire life - even if it has taken me decades to realize that’s what they were and are.

The beauty, and irony in my personal journey to becoming an IFMGA mountain guide, is in the eventual realization that there is no end point to the process of being a professional. There is no goal post. There is no perfection of your craft. There is no stamp of “good enough”. There’s only more work to be done. Being a professional means that there is always a next step. It means there’s always a way to improve.

At the end of the day being a professional is a mindset. It’s a way of being. What’s your profession?

Magical light and world-class scenery on today’s alpine start with .ben.

Tomorrow is the day! Join me live for Managing Uncertainty: The URMAP Framework (and why every climber needs it). Very excited to share this info. Join me at the link in my bio ⛰️

Looking forward to cleaning and climbing on December 8! Anyone who shows up for the highway clean-up get to climb for free ⛰️ More details at the link in my bio.

One spot left in tomorrow’s “Self Rescue 101” course in the Gunks!

Sign up at link in my bio - would love to have you.

Just a few spots left in my November Self Rescue 101 Clinic! I strongly believe that climbers of any level will benefit from this day of deep-diving into everything self-rescue. Learn more and reserve your spot in my bio!

Back by popular demand! I’m opening up two Self Rescue Clinics: Nov 27 and Dec 7. Details ⬇️

You’ll learn how to create simple, effective rope systems, tackle problem-solving in critical moments, and master skills like rope ascension, lowering, hauling, and tandem rappelling. 🧗‍♂️You’ll also build confidence!

Limited to 4 people per session– save your spot now!

🔑 Pre-reqs:
- Toprope 5.7+
- 6+ months of recent climbing experience
- Indoor/outdoor climbing 1-2x/month

📢 Calling all Gunks climbers! Ready to level up your rescue skills? Join my Self-Rescue Clinic in NY for an intimate, hands-on workshop designed to give you the confidence to handle emergencies on technical ground. You’ll learn how to create simple, effective rope systems, tackle problem-solving in critical moments, and master skills like rope ascension, lowering, hauling, and tandem rappelling. 🧗‍♂️

Limited to 4 people – save your spot now!

🔑 Pre-reqs:
- Toprope 5.7+
- 6+ months of recent climbing experience
- Indoor/outdoor climbing 1-2x/month

Happy 12th anniversary to my best friend and my biggest teacher, . Thank you for expecting the world from me while so generously sharing your own. Thank you for your vulnerability, your passion and your work ethic. I owe you so much much and couldn’t ask for a better partner on this outrageous journey. I love you to the moon and back.